![]() ![]() Now we're into it! Code sails (0, 1, 2, 3, etc.) are designed with very specific purpose (wind velocity/angle) for racing. Hoist/douse: continuous line furler (stows in bag with sail) Sailcloth: nylon or polyester (not good for cruising) or laminates (polyester and/or high modulus fibers) ![]() TWS: 5 to ? (very sailcloth / AWA dependent – closer angles = less max wind, otherwise similar to asymmetric) ![]() For broad reaching to DDW, attaching pole to clew helps project the sail to keep it filled and reduce collapsing. When close reaching, attaching the tack to pole give complete control of tack location. Using a spinnaker or whisker pole adds complexity (though still simpler than spinnaker setup), but helps the sail fly better. but a general-purpose sail is most common. There are many geometry and shape variations based on boat/purpose/etc. In general, the tack attaches at the bow via a tack lines and has a free-flying luff. It is easier to rig and fly than a spinnaker. Unlike spinnakers, asymmetric sails have only one vertical edge that can be the luff, unless hoisted incorrectly- which is symmetrically embarrassing! Sail shape is fuller in the front (luff) and flatter in the back (leech), like a headsail. Hoist/Douse: with a sock (easiest) or directly from bag Spinnakers can be designed and built as general-purpose, or for specific wind characteristics.Ĭruising chute / gennaker / MPS /asymmetricĪWA: 90°-ish (beam reaching) to 180° (DDW) if poled out.Ĭonstruction: tri-radial (best) or bi-radial Cruisers tend to over-trim to reduce the attention otherwise required, so they're rarely used optimally. Spinnakers have more involved rigging (sheets, guys, pole, topping lift, downhaul, halyard) and require more attention trimming, although catamarans have it easier because they can fly from the hulls and avoid a pole. Multihulls can use a pole or free float the sail between hulls. In some situations, monohulls can “free float” a spinnaker without pole. For monohulls, a spinnaker pole attached to tack controls the sail’s angle relative to the wind and boat. This is a symmetrical sail, so vertical edges are free flying and either can be luff or leech. Hoist/douse: with a sock (easiest) or directly from bag Sailcloth: nylon or polyester (not good for cruising), 0.4oz to 2.2oz per SYĬonstruction: tri-radial is best (and typical) older sails can be bi-radial or crosscut TWS: 3 to ? (most likely 20 to 25 TWS, but can be higher if you dare)Ĭomplexity: moderate to high, for experienced sailors easier on catamarans Hopefully we struck a balance, but if terms are unfamiliar, it might help to read some the definitions at bottom- or if you’re impatient, skip to the summary: What sail should you use? Spinnaker Putting this together was a pushme/pullyou between me and Jamie: my urge is to simplify (I’m a fan of Big Animal Pictures), Jamie wants to share detailed technical knowledge (he knows way too much about the subject). The descriptions below are for cruising context, racing applications add complexity. Does it cover all bases? No! What's the catch? Keep reading! Punchline: code zeroes are great for cruising. I knew Jamie’d make sense of it, so he’s helped me organize this primer to provide basic general information on each sail, as well as his opinion on what’s the best for cruising purposes. Differences between these sails aren’t difficult to understand, but get confusing because the names are mixed up or misused. Because Jamie is a sailmaker, I asked him for help with a response that would be useful to differentiate the options for downwind sails. This question came up on a women's sailing forum I participate in recently. There is no single “best,” because everything on a boat is a compromise, and individual styles/needs vary, but we have some opinions on the optimal choice for most cruisers. What’s the difference between a drifter, a gennaker, a code zero, and a screecher? Where does a spinnaker fit in? And if you’re a cruiser, what sail should you use for downwind sailing, anyway?
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